Brilliant new Goan beer brings back lost rice strain

WHEN Suraj Shenai launched rice beer in the Goan market in June this year, it was more than just another beer. It was a distillation of the grain culture of a region infused with a complex history and cultural ethos that even predates the arrival of the Portuguese over 500 years ago.

It was also the culmination of a process to document paddy farming and identify ‘heirloom’ varieties of rice which have been progressively replaced by the more robust ‘Jyoti’ variety.

“Every region has a grain culture. Like some areas have a wheat or bean. . .

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