Sitting in the balcony of my room at the Noor-Us-Sabah Palace Heritage Hotel in Bhopal, I watched a magnificent sunset over a picturesque lake. Noor-Us-Sabah, which means ‘light of dawn’, was formerly a palace belonging to the royal family of Bhopal. At the entrance, a portrait of the begum who was on the throne when it was built, heralds a welcome. There is also the royal palanquin and opposite it the former princely state’s insignia, which used to be carried before the royal carriage during state functions. And there is. . .